How to Measure for a Ceiling-Fixed Curtain Track?
Direct Fabrics — Measuring Guides
How to Measure for a Ceiling-Fixed Curtain Track
For curtains fixed straight into the ceiling rather than the wall — used for wall-to-wall runs, bay windows, and rooms with no wall space above the window.
Why this matters
Once a bracket is fixed into the wrong spot on a ceiling, you're patching plasterboard — not just moving a wall bracket. Getting this measurement right the first time saves a much bigger job later. Take your time on the steps below.
Before you start
Check these first
The most common mistake here: marking bracket positions without checking what's above the plasterboard, or measuring to the window opening instead of the finished curtain width.
Step by step
Measuring your ceiling track
Decide your finished track width
Measure the full width you want the track to span — wall to wall if it's going beyond the window, not just the window opening.
Check whether you need overlap or return
An overlap — where the two panels cross at the centre — only happens with two separate parallel tracks, or a single track fitted with a dedicated overlap arm. A single plain track won't create one by itself. Overlap arms are more commonly available on corded (traversing) tracks than on hand-drawn tracks, so check what your chosen track supports before assuming you'll get one.
Returns aren't required, but they help stop light gaping down the sides. You don't need a full wraparound bracket to get some return — a screw-in eye at the end of the track, or a narrower end bracket (e.g. 3cm), gives a smaller return without the depth of a full wraparound.
Locate your fixing points
Run a joist detector along the marked track line and mark every point where a joist or noggin sits behind the plasterboard. Joists or solid wall blocks are the ideal fixing point.
Mark bracket spacing
Standard spacing is every 30–40cm, tighter for heavier fabrics or wave headings. Adjust marks to land on joists where possible.
Measure your curtain drop
Measure from the ceiling down to your target finish point — floor, sill, or just below sill. Take this at both ends of the window and in the middle, since ceilings and floors are rarely perfectly level.
Check clearance for your wave size
Wave heading tracks need a gap between the track and the wall behind so the fold can move freely without brushing against it. A deeper wave (e.g. 80mm) projects further as it moves than a shallower wave (e.g. 60mm), so it needs more clearance — roughly 8cm for a 60mm wave, 10cm for an 80mm wave, though this varies by supplier, so check your fabric's actual wave spec.
Note any joins
If your finished track length exceeds a single manufactured length, joins are not a structural problem — tracks are designed to join cleanly. Where you have a choice, position the join centrally along the run for the neatest appearance, rather than off to one side.
Record your final numbers
You should now have everything needed to order.
Your measurements
Fill this in as you go, or print it and take it round the room with you.
Track & heading
Ceiling & fixing
Drop (ceiling to floor / sill)
Notes
This sheet is for your own reference — nothing here is saved or sent anywhere unless you send it to us yourself.
What to have ready before you order
- Finished track length, including stack back and any overlap or return
- Bracket positions relative to one end, with two brackets doubled up at each end
- Ceiling-to-floor (or ceiling-to-sill) drop at left, centre and right
- Ceiling type — plasterboard on joists, solid concrete, or suspended — and whether plasterboard fixings are needed anywhere
- Any obstructions noted — coving, downlights, ceiling roses
Not sure about any of this?
Measuring your own ceiling for the first time, or working out what track and fixings you actually need, isn't always straightforward. You don't have to get it right alone.
Let us take the measurements
If you're unsure about joist positions, an uneven ceiling, or which numbers matter most, our team can measure for you before you order — so nothing's left to guess.
Ask about our measuring serviceGet it installed for you
Prefer not to fit it yourself? We can arrange installation, so you don't need to worry about brackets, fixings, or getting the drop level.
Ask about installationCommon questions
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to find joists before ordering, or just before fitting?
Before fitting, but it's worth checking roughly at measuring stage — if there's genuinely no solid fixing along your track line, you may need a different fixing method, which is worth knowing before you order.
What if my ceiling isn't level?
Measure the drop at both ends and the centre. If it varies by more than a few millimetres, use the shortest measurement so the curtain doesn't drag — a very slight visual taper is normal in most homes.
Can I ceiling-fix over a bay window?
Yes — it's one of the most common reasons to choose ceiling fixing, since the track can follow the bay's angles more cleanly than a wall-mounted equivalent.
Do I still need brackets if the track screws straight up through the track body?
Some tracks fix directly through the track rather than via separate brackets, but the same joist rule applies — always check what's above the plasterboard.
How much overlap do I need at the centre?
An overlap needs either two separate parallel tracks or a track fitted with an overlap arm — it isn't something a single plain track does by itself. Where fitted, around 10cm total (5cm per side) is standard.
What is stack back and how much space do I need?
Stack back is the space your curtains take up at the sides of the window when fully open. Allow roughly 20–25% of the window width as extra track length beyond the frame, so open curtains don't sit over the glass.
Are joins in the track a weak point?
No — tracks are designed to join cleanly and carry load across the join. Where you have a choice, position it centrally along the run for the neatest look, not because it's structurally required.
What if there's a ceiling rose or light fitting in the way?
Route the track around it if possible, or let us know at order stage — it affects bracket spacing near that point.
Does coving affect where I can put the track?
Yes — coving reduces the usable ceiling depth right at the wall junction, so keep the track clear of it if it needs to sit close to a wall.
Is ceiling fixing suitable for heavy, interlined curtains?
Yes, provided fixings land on joists or solid noggins — this is exactly the scenario where skipping the joist check causes problems months later, not on day one.
How much gap do I need between the wave and the wall?
It depends on the wave size — a deeper wave needs more room to move without brushing the wall. Roughly 8cm for a 60mm wave and 10cm for an 80mm wave is a reasonable starting point, but check your track and fabric supplier's own spec, as this varies.
Can I use a ceiling track over patio or French doors?
Yes, and it's often preferred there since there's usually no wall space above the frame to fix to.