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How to Measure for a Wall-Fixed Curtain Track?

Direct Fabrics · Measuring Guides

How to Measure for a Wall-Fixed Curtain Track

For curtains fixed to the wall above the window, the most common fixing method for standard windows with enough wall space above the frame.

4 minutesReading time
BeginnerSkill level
Tape measure, pencil, stepladder, stud detectorWhat you'll need
Struggling to measure, or not sure what to install? We're here to help. Get in touch and we'll talk it through with you.

Why this matters

Wall-fixed track is the most common fixing method there is, and one of the quickest to get slightly wrong. A track mounted too low blocks light when open. One mounted into the wrong wall material works loose within months, not immediately. Take your time on the steps below.

Before you start

Check these first

Wall typeSolid masonry, timber stud wall, or plasterboard on dot and dab over masonry. Each needs a different fixing.
ArchitraveThe trim around your window frame projects out from the wall. It affects how far your bracket needs to sit off the wall.
ObstaclesWindow handles that open into the room, radiators below, and skirting boards can all limit where the track sits.

The most common mistake here: measuring straight to the window opening without allowing for stack back, or fixing brackets without checking what's actually behind the plasterboard.

Step by step

Measuring your wall-fixed track

01

Decide your finished track width

Measure the full width you want the track to span, wall to wall if it's going beyond the window, not just the window opening.

Common mistakeMeasuring only the glass width, then finding the curtains still cover part of the window when fully open.
Stack back allowanceAdd roughly 20 to 25% of the window width as extra track length beyond the frame, split across both ends or one end for a single panel. This is the space the curtain needs to sit clear of the glass when open, not just when closed.
02

Check whether you need overlap or return

An overlap, where the two panels cross at the centre, only happens with two separate parallel tracks, or a single track fitted with a dedicated overlap arm. A single plain track won't create one by itself. Overlap arms are more commonly available on corded, traversing tracks than on hand-drawn tracks, so check what your chosen track supports before assuming you'll get one.

Returns aren't required, but they help stop light gaping down the sides. You don't need a full wraparound bracket to get some return. A screw-in eye at the end of the track, or a narrower end bracket such as 3cm, gives a smaller return without the depth of a full wraparound.

Worth knowingEven with a full return, an overlap, and blackout lining, some light will still pass around the edges of a curtain. This is normal, not a fault, and it's worth setting that expectation before ordering rather than after.
WALL TRACK overlap, if fitted return return finished track width, including stack back
Diagram: track width, overlap and returns. Measure to the finished width including stack back. Overlap needs two tracks or an overlap arm. Returns are optional and can be a full wraparound or a smaller screw-in eye.
03

Decide how high above the frame to mount the track

As a starting point, mount the track roughly 10 to 15cm above the top of the window frame. This stops light showing through the gap when closed and lets the curtain clear the frame cleanly when drawn open. Check the ceiling height and any coving first, since a low ceiling limits how high you can go.

Common mistakeMounting the track too close to the frame, so the curtain heading or gliders catch on the top of the frame when opening.
Installer tipFor a taller, more furnished look without ceiling fixing, mount as high above the frame as the ceiling allows and keep that clearance consistent across the whole wall, not just above the window.
04

Locate your fixing points

Identify your wall type before you fix anything. A stud detector will find timber studs behind plasterboard on a stud wall, and will also show you whether you're on solid masonry or hollow dot and dab plasterboard.

Why it mattersA loaded curtain track carries real weight. Fixing into the wrong wall type doesn't fail immediately, it works loose over months, which is why this step gets skipped until it's a problem.
Dot and dab plasterboard?Plasterboard is often fixed to masonry with adhesive dabs, leaving a void behind it, commonly 10 to 40mm deep. A dot and dab specific fixing can work here, but going through the void into the solid masonry behind with a good quality plug and screw is the stronger, more reliable option where you have the choice.
CORRECT plaster void masonry long fixing reaches solid masonry INCORRECT plaster void masonry short fixing stops in the void
Diagram: fixing into dot and dab plasterboard. A fixing reaching the solid masonry behind the void is the stronger option, against a short fixing that stops in the void and pulls loose under load.
05

Mark bracket spacing

Standard spacing is every 30 to 40cm, tighter for heavier fabrics or wave headings. Start the first bracket roughly 10cm in from each end of the track, then adjust marks to land on studs or solid masonry where possible.

Common mistakeSpacing brackets evenly by eye without checking wall structure first, then having to compromise on fixing quality to hit the line.
Installer tipFit two brackets close together at each end of the track, not just one. This supports the weight of the stacked curtain at the ends of the run, where the fabric bunches when open.
Top tipOn the side where the curtain stacks back the most, such as a single panel drawn fully to one side, add an extra bracket at roughly 10cm spacing from the end bracket. This gives the stacked fabric a bit more support than the standard spacing alone.
track end stacking end stud stud stud 10cm in shifted slightlyto reach nearest stud extra bracket10cm spacing
Diagram: bracket spacing along the track. First bracket set 10cm in from the end, standard spacing adjusted to land on solid support, and an extra bracket added at 10cm spacing on the stacking side for the bunched fabric.
06

Measure the bracket projection you need

Two things stack up here. First, the architrave around your window frame projects out from the wall, so your bracket needs to clear it. Second, a wave heading needs its own clearance from the wall behind so the fold can move freely without brushing against it. A deeper wave, such as 80mm, projects further as it moves than a shallower wave, such as 60mm, so it needs more clearance, roughly 8cm for a 60mm wave and 10cm for an 80mm wave, though this varies by supplier so check your fabric's actual wave spec.

Common mistakeChoosing bracket projection based on wave clearance alone, then finding the architrave forces the track further out than planned.
Installer tipMeasure the deepest point of your architrave from the wall first, then add the wave gap on top of that, not instead of it.
60mm WAVE WALL arch. 8cm gap TRACK curtain, shallower fold 80mm WAVE arch. 10cm gap TRACK curtain, deeper fold gap measured from the architrave face, not the wall itself
Diagram: bracket projection, architrave and wave gap. The gap needed for the wave is measured out from the front of the architrave, not from the wall behind it. Check your fabric's actual wave spec before fixing this.
07

Measure your curtain drop

Measure from the track down to your target finish point, floor, sill, or just below sill. Take this at both ends of the window and in the middle, since walls and floors are rarely perfectly plumb or level.

Installer tipFor floor length curtains, subtract 1 to 1.5cm from your floor measurement so the hem clears the floor without dragging.
TRACK window frame FLOOR left centre right measure at all three points, use the shortest for cutting
Diagram: measuring the drop. Measure track to floor, or track to sill, at left, centre and right. If they differ, use the shortest so the hem doesn't drag.
08

Note any joins

If your finished track length exceeds a single manufactured length, joins are not a structural problem, tracks are designed to join cleanly. Where you have a choice, position the join centrally along the run for the neatest appearance, rather than off to one side.

What to have ready before you order

  • Finished track length, including stack back and any overlap or return
  • Bracket positions relative to one end, with two brackets doubled up at each end
  • Height of the track above the top of the window frame
  • Track to floor, or track to sill, drop at left, centre and right
  • Wall type, solid masonry, timber stud, or dot and dab plasterboard, and whether longer fixings are needed
  • Bracket projection needed, accounting for the architrave and your wave size if applicable

Not sure about any of this?

Measuring your own wall for the first time, or working out what fixing your wall actually needs, isn't always straightforward. You don't have to get it right alone.

Measuring help

Let us take the measurements

If you're unsure about your wall type, an uneven surface, or which numbers matter most, our team can measure for you before you order, so nothing's left to guess.

Ask about our measuring service
Installation help

Get it installed for you

Prefer not to fit it yourself? We can arrange installation, so you don't need to worry about brackets, fixings, or getting the drop level.

Ask about installation

Your measurements

Fill this in as you go, or print it and take it round the room with you.

Track and heading

Wall and fixing

Drop, track to floor or sill

Notes

This sheet is for your own reference, nothing here is saved or sent anywhere unless you send it to us yourself.

Common questions

Frequently asked questions

Do I need to find studs before ordering, or just before fitting?

Before fitting, but it's worth checking roughly at measuring stage. If your wall turns out to be dot and dab plasterboard throughout, you'll need longer fixings, which is worth knowing before you order.

How do I know if my wall is dot and dab?

Tap the wall. A hollow, drum-like sound over most of the surface, with occasional solid-sounding patches, usually means dot and dab plasterboard over masonry. A stud detector will also flag it. Where possible, fixing through into the solid masonry with a good quality plug is stronger than a plasterboard-only fixing.

Will blackout curtains block all light?

No, and that's normal. Even with a full return, an overlap, and blackout lining, some light will always pass around the edges of a curtain. It isn't a fault, it's an expected part of how curtains fit.

How high above the window should the track sit?

Roughly 10 to 15cm above the top of the frame is a good starting point, checked against your ceiling height and any coving.

Does the architrave really affect my measurements?

Yes. It projects out from the wall, so your bracket needs to clear it before you even add the gap needed for your wave or heading style.

What if my wall isn't perfectly flat or plumb?

Measure the drop at both ends. If they differ by more than a few millimetres, use the shortest measurement so the curtain doesn't drag.

How much overlap do I need at the centre?

An overlap needs either two separate parallel tracks or a track fitted with an overlap arm, it isn't something a single plain track does by itself. Where fitted, around 10cm total, 5cm per side, is standard.

What is stack back and how much space do I need?

Stack back is the space your curtains take up at the sides of the window when fully open. Allow roughly 20 to 25% of the window width as extra track length beyond the frame, so open curtains don't sit over the glass.

How much gap do I need between the wave and the wall?

It depends on the wave size, a deeper wave needs more room to move without brushing the wall or architrave. Roughly 8cm for a 60mm wave and 10cm for an 80mm wave is a reasonable starting point, but check your supplier's own spec.

Are joins in the track a weak point?

No, tracks are designed to join cleanly and carry load across the join. Where you have a choice, position it centrally along the run for the neatest look, not because it's structurally required.

Can I wall-fix over a window with deep reveals either side?

Yes, though check the bracket projection still clears any window handle or reveal detail before you settle on a final number.

Direct Fabrics · Measuring Guides. All measurements shown in centimetres, divide by 2.54 to convert to inches, or ask our team for imperial measurements on request.
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